For those wanting a break while still getting in some soft biking, I’ve just returned back from a midweek break at Center Parcs at Whinfell Forest near Penrith in the Lake District and would definitely recommend the Center Parcs priority package.

It was the first time I’ve visited a Center Parcs, my girlfriend Becky had been to a couple when she was younger. We booked an apartment together with the priority package at Whinfell Forest.

The Center Parcs Whinfell Forest complex was really easy to find, literally 5 minutes off J40 of the M6.

Arriving is pretty straight forward, you queue up to the 6 drive through areas, where you’re signed in, given your keys and told what to do. After which you basically park up and wait till 3pm when you can enter the complex, during this time you can get out and go explore the complex on foot if you wish.

We had paid extra, so we were allowed to drive into the complex an hour early at 2pm. Think of Center Parcs Whinfell Forest like a little village, with cottages grouped collectively in little cul-de-sacs around the complex. A smooth, one way, tarmac road round winds throughout the complex, the complex is simple to navigate round, just follow the signs. Cars are only allowed on the complex on arrival and departure days only, so having dropped off all your bags you then drive to large car park and bid farewell to your car till the end of the holiday.

The Cycle Hire Centre is located right next to the car park so we popped in, were efficently given two bikes and cycled back to our apartment. The bikes are all mountain bikes, and you can hire kid seats and little trailers you can pull along as well. They aren’t the most amazing bikes in the world but will do you for cycling the short distances around the complex.

Center Parcs Whinfell Forest Extras - Priority Package

If there is one piece of advice I can give it is to take advantage of the Priority Package when booking your holiday! It is a fantastic package. For only £100 you get:
* Early check-in - hour early at 2pm which is quite handy as you can be getting on when people are only just entering the complex.
* Week long hire of 2 mountain bikes
* 2 free spa sessions on the Monday or Friday. (I would recommend to go Monday - it was dead)
* £10 gift voucher to use at the Parcmarket
* Visitor passes - ideal if you have family up in the Lake District.
* Welcome pack - which was fantastic - you get 2 pints of organic semi-skimmed milk, loaf of bread, butter, big bag of sugar, big bag of twinnings tea bags, big pot of Gold Blend coffee, big bottle of Volvic water, washing up liquid, loads of Andrex toilet rolls, big pots of strawberry jam and marmalade, a carton of Tropicana orange juice and a pack of Mcvities milk chocolate digestives.

How Expensive Is Center Parcs Whinfell Forest?
One of the concerns I had when going to Center Parcs Whinfell Forest was how expensive it was going to be, especially with buying food and drink from the supermarket at the complex. Another concern was how well stocked the Supermarket would be from previous holiday experiences aboard.

From reading some reviews, we went to Sainsbury’s before we left and stocked up fearing it would be mega expensive, however we didn’t need to at all. For one, the supermarket was very well stocked, it was fantastic - it had EVERYTHING and I mean EVERYTHING. The prices were also very competitive, I would say exactly the same as the likes of Sainsbury’s with maybe a couple of items being slightly more but nothing to make you conk at the till! The welcome pack also covered most essentials for the week too.

Eating Out?
There is a good choice of restaurants, an American diner, Cafe Rouge, Bella Italia, an Indian and Refresh, a little cafe. There was a Starbucks for a relaxed coffee by the lake which was nice. We decided to eat in 2 nights and eat at the American diner and Bella Italia. The food was good at the two restaurants, however the prices were slightly on the expensive side. Expect a main to cost around £10, with drinks head north to £3.

If you have little ones though you’re in for a mega deal, for every adult spending over £10, children ate free in the restaurants.

There was also a takeaway/delivery service should you feel like staying in and doing nothing. There were pizzas, indian and chinese on offer, as well as drinks too. Again the prices weren’t cheap but hey you’re on holiday and you could get away with it as a one off.

Activities
Center Parcs is totally geared up for kids, I would say aged up to the beginning of High School and prodominantly little ones. There are tons and tons of activities available, in fact I doubt away from paragliding there isn’t an activity you couldn’t do. There is plenty to keep everyone entertained all week. The activities were good, lasting around 45-60 minutes. The activities are where they make a lot of their money so they can be quite expensive. The trick is to plan ahead before you arrive.

Swimming is strongly catered for, the large dome holds not only the restaurants but the massive swimming pool. Really nicely set up for all ages, really warm, well monitored by lifeguards. There is a wave machine, water rapids and loads of slides. All I would say is that if you want a quiet gentle swim then I would book time in the spa pool instead!

So is Center Parcs all about kids? What about couples?
Although kids do play a big part at Center Parcs I didn’t feel they got under my feet at all due to the space available. The big swimming pool was a bit claustrophobic during the day but after 7 it was fine. There is no entertainment around really at all and the complex goes dead after 10pm,so prepare to chill in your apartment with a DVD. Becky and I would recommend taking the Friends box set, super relaxing!!

For couples I would definately 100 recommend the spa Aqua Sana, it is fantastic. It has 11 different steam rooms, foot baths, a hydrotherapy pool, waterbeds and an outdoor heated pool which was gorgeous. The way to do it is to take loads of books and magazines and spend a whole afternoon just chilling on the sofas, do a treatment and then chill some more. It was gorgeous. You can get a whole week pass for £50 each, or just an afternoon for £36. Expensive but worth it for the experience.

Additional treatments are available too, an hour massage session will be knocking on £60 while a haircut and highlights will be around £100.

There are loads of other activities available and we enjoyed crazy golf, quad biking and I loved the horse riding. You have a good hour ride through the forest and the complex, all supervised and it was great.

Booking is so simple over the internet and there are points around Center Parcs where you can look and book. The instructors were all very helpful and friendly too.

Accomodation
There is a range of accomodation available at Whinfell Forest from small 4 bedroom cottages with a jacuzzi attached to it to a studio apartment. We had a studio apartment and it was really nice, very spacious, the kitchen was very well equipment and the bathroom did the job. The TV and hifi were good and we looked out onto a pond and the dome behind. We made friends with the ducks and rabbits while we were there!

Other accomodation looks nice, and all look similar, I would advise to get as near to the centre as possible as the cottages looked much nicer. If you happen to book on the outskirts of the complex, don’t worry as everything is really easy to get to and I would say you were only 5-10 minutes away by bike to the center.

Apart from the Lakeside Lodges and apartments I would say the rest of the complex have very limited views, either overgrown trees or looking out to the front of your cul-de-sac, so don’t get over excited! In my opinion I thought the grounds needed more of a tidy up and a trimming back, but hey I suppose it’s rough and rugged forest!

In Conclusion
It was a great holiday I would recommend Center Parcs Whinfell Forest it to anyone, especially those with little ones. I would feel comfortable letting my son or daughter play on their bike around the cottage in the evenings. It was very secure and very relaxing.

Don’t get worried about the supermarket prices, just plan ahead with eating out and activities.

Oh and if you have a road bike do take it as the tarmac road around the complex is fantastic to do some circuits on!

Welcome to YoXo. This is your first post. Edit or delete it, then start blogging!

Welcome to YoXo. This is your first post. Edit or delete it, then start blogging!

Bicycles have multiple gears so that it’s easier to go up hills, and so you can go faster on level ground. Read this article and in five minutes you’ll know how to use your gears.

First, let’s get our terms straight so we’re on the same page

You can think of gears as the same thing as speeds — a bike with 18 gears is an 18-speed bike. Bikes generally have 1, 3, 18, 21, 24, or 27 speeds. (10- and 15-speeds are obsolete and you don’t see them on new bikes any more.)

Lower numbers are the low gears, and higher numbers are the high gears. First gear is a low gear. Twenty-first gear is a high gear. That’s pretty easy, right?

Shifting means going from one gear to another. You shift gears by sliding the shifter on the handlebars. On most bikes this shifts the chain onto a different sized ring. On three-speed bikes the gears are inside the hub of the wheel so you don’t see them.

Downshifting means going to a lower gear, and upshifting means going to a higher gear. You can also say shift down and shift up.

How do I tell what numbers my gears are?

If your bike has three speeds then telling the gears apart is easy, because there’s only one shifter and it’s labeled 1-2-3. You can skip the rest of this section and go on to the next one.

But if your bike has 10 or more speeds then it’s just a little bit trickier, because you have two shifters. Let’s say you have an 18-speed bike. Your left shifter will be labeled 1-2-3, and your right shifter will be labeled 1-2-3-4-5-6. This means that for each number on the left, you get six different speeds on the right, for a total of 18.

Shifting moves the chain onto a different ring. Moving the lever changes where the chain is.

Your bike might have only 6, 7, or 8 rings.

The left shifter changes the ring next to the pedals. The smallest ring is 1, the middle ring is 2, and the biggest ring is 3. When you downshift with your left shifter, you’re moving to a smaller ring.
The right shifter changes the ring on the rear wheel. This is opposite of the front set: On the rear wheel the biggest ring is 1, and the smallest ring is 6.

You don’t have to worry about the ring sizes if you don’t want to, you can just look at the numbers on the shifter. You can downshift with either shifter, moving it from a higher number to a smaller number. You get a bigger change when you shift with the left-hand shifter than when you shift with the right-hand shifter.
Now that you know what the terms mean, let’s see how to use our gears

Here’s pretty much all you need to know about shifting gears:

• If you’re going uphill and it’s too difficult, shift down.
• If your legs are spinning the pedals way too fast (it’s too “easy”) then shift up.

That’s it, in a nutshell. Of course there are nuances but that’s 90% of what you need to know.

Here it is with more detail:

Let’s say you’re on a three-speed bike, in second speed. You start to go up a hill, and suddenly your legs can’t spin the pedals as fast. You’re barely turning the pedals, pushing hard on them, and you’re going so slowly you think you might fall over. The solution? Downshift to first gear.

How does that solve the problem? First gear moves you a shorter distance for each spin of the pedals, which makes it easier to pedal.

Now let’s say you’ve reached the top of the hill, and you start going downhill slightly. Soon you find there’s no resistance in the pedals — you can spin them as fast as you want and you’re not really getting anywhere. Solution? Upshift back to 2, and if it’s still too easy, then upshift to 3.

This works because the higher gears move you farther for each spin of the pedals, making you do more “work”, and making it less “easy”.

Advanced gearing

So you’ve learned the basics: Uphill = shift down, Downhill = shift up. But you have an 18-speed bike and you’re wondering which shifter to use, the left one or the right one?

The answer depends on how much change you need. If you need a big change, use your left shifter. If you need a small change, use the right one. As you ride you’ll get a feel for whether you need a big change or a small change.

Another thing: Try to keep the chain in a sort-of straight line between the front and rear sets, rather than going at an angle from left to right. For example, in the very lowest gear the chain will be all the way on the left on both sets. In the very highest gear the chain will be all the way on the right. What you don’t want to do is to use the left-hand ring in the front and the right-hand ring in the back, which makes the chain go diagonally — that stretches the chain and wears it out. You also don’t want to use the right-hand ring in the front and the left-hand ring in the back. Same thing.

If you’re in the easiest gear (left-hand on both rings) and you need to upshift, and you’ve moved the chain on the rear set to the middle, and that’s not enough and you still need to upshift, don’t keep shifting the rear set. Instead, shift the front set from the left to the middle (1 to 2). That keeps your chain nice and straight.

So yes, you won’t use every gear available to you. - You’re not supposed to. When you get an 18-speed bike vs. a 15-speed bike, the point isn’t really that you get more gears to use, it’s to give you a wider range — the lower gears will be lower (easier to pedal up hills) and the higher gears will be higher (take you farther on one spin when you’re going downhill).

Right, I thought, time for a new bike. My trusty, if hardly inspiring, Raleigh was somewhat lacking in the working gears department, so thus motivated, and enticed by the financial attractions of the Environment Agency’s cycle to work scheme (bless ‘em!), I decided to upgrade to a shiny new type. But what to get? Another boring, safe ‘hybrid’? Or a more muscular mountain bike? Can I see myself careering down muddy hills and over humps and bumps?…well, no, not exactly.

So what about something a bit faster, one of them there racing bikes? Is it really practical to commute to work on something with no mudguards and nothing to put my work gear on? Probably not….however, a touring bike looked the right choice…with mudguards, panniers etc.

So that was the difficult bit done…I thought. All I need to do now is walk into one of the approved shops, pick a nice(red)  bike, get the quote, order the voucher, wait for the voucher to come, return to the shop and pick up the bike. Easy. Well, not quite.

First shop, reasonably helpful, found a nice looking bike, albeit silver (not red dammit!), but as it was Sunday and they were due to close, it was suggested I return in the week to be measured, quoted etc. (I didn’t).

Second shop, more helpful, but no Giant racing bikes in stock until 2020 (or a long time anyway) but offered to make me a bike up by converting an FCR3 with drops and panniers etc. However, only one in stock so would need £50 deposit to secure. I said I would think about it….took away first quote…

Third shop (getting to be a saga now) was again about to close as I arrived ( why do bike shops close early on a saturday) but reasonably helpful, took away Trek catalogue and chap seemed to know what he was talking about.

Fourth shop…feeling cycle buying fatigue now…wandered round for a bit until spotty youth disturbed himself enough to ask what I wanted. Found bike in Claude Butler catalogue (still not red!!!) and got quote. Progress…felt very positive.

Fifth shop (never let it be said that I wasnt considering ALL the options)….wandered round for a bit but this time spotty youth behind till remained engrossed by ‘Spotty Youth Monthly’ magazine so walked out without taking my custom any further…

Now returned to third shop (do keep up!) and helpful assistant (a different one) sorted out a quote. So now had three (count them!) quotes and decision to make.

After discussion with man who knows about bikes, eliminated build job.Now 2 quotes.Choice.

Silver Claude Butler versus White (with red trim, yes red) Trek 1.2. After much thought, opted for Trek. Rang to check supplies. Disaster! Apparently have chosen 2010 stock which will not be in stock until late September. Furher thought. Go for CB (which is in stock asap) or wait? After full consideration of all technical aspects, gears, build, etc, opt for Trek as there is some red on the frame….order voucher and await developments….

Brake levers

Your levers can easily get ‘clogged up’ with dirt. When applied, levers should always move smoothly and noiseless. Checking your brake levers is easy - simply squeeze them.

When your gears are fully engaged, there should be approximately one inch of space between the inside edge of the lever and your handlebars. At this point your brakes should hold solidly against your full weight.

Levers may also slip out of position on your handlebars. The levers should be mounted firmly but with a bit of give so that in the event of a severe knock, they will move a bit rather than snap which could happen if they were mounted too firmly.

Brake assemblies

These include the brake arms, brake shoes (which house the brake pads) and the pads themselves. They can be set-up incorrectly or jarred out of position as a result of an accident or crash. They should be checked to make sure all parts move freely and are positioned properly.

Visually inspect both the front and the rear brake units and make sure they’re centered on each wheel with the brake pads equidistant from the rim surfaces.

Note: Wheels that are out of true can cause many brake assembly problems.

Pads wear down therefore requiring more effort to fully engage the brakes and give slower response times. Pads can also be jarred out of position. Check regularly to see if your pads are glazed, or significantly worn. Glazed pads can be cleaned. Pads that are worn down significantly should be replaced. Unevenly worn pads can either be sanded or filed flat or may even need replacing.

Note: Each pad should fully contact the rim when the brake is engaged. They should do this without touching the tyre or hanging over the lower edge of the rim. Pads should be “toed-in” slightly when viewed from above. This is so the leading edge of the pad makes contact with the rim surface slightly before the back edge does. This improves brake effectiveness and prevents that squealing sound.

Brake cables and housings

Cables fray, rust and weaken over time. They also wear, kink and fray as a result of normal use. Cable housings that protect your cables can break, corrode or clog up over time. Cables should always move freely through all cable housings and the guides that hold them in place. Check your brake cables and housings regularly for visible frays, rust, or signs of wear during all major brake overhauls and maintenance checks.

Want to make sure your bike is in tip-top condition for your daily or weekly rides? Then the best defense against loose components is a thorough pre-ride check. Regular pre-ride checks will help you catch potential problems before they develop into safety hazards. Use this quick and easy bike check to make sure it is in a safe condition. It’s worthwhile performing this during, or after washing your bike.

Check your brakes. 

Your brakes are properly adjusted if they are fully on by the time the brake lever is pulled halfway to the handlebars. If you are able to pull the brake lever closer than that, your brake system may need some attention.

Check the brake pads. There should be plenty of rubber left on the pad when they are about 1mm away from the rim. All brake pads have a line or notches that indicate when the pad needs replacing. If your pads have worn down to the wear line or notches, replace them.

Check for fraying brake cables. This can occur near the cable adjuster or anywhere where they emerge from the outer cable. Make sure it takes only normal pressure to apply the brakes if not this could signify a frayed or stiff cable.

If you have V-brakes, you should note that the extra stopping power comes at a cost, the brakes wear faster than the old models. Also, check to make sure the brakes are even on both sides of the rim. If not, they may need a slight adjustment.

Check your handlebars and stem for cracks.Check your tyres and rims

Make sure the handlebars are level and the stem lines up with the front wheel.

Check the tyres for cuts and wear. Excess wear can decrease grip and increase your chances of sliding out on turns. Keep your tyres inflated to the recommended pressure. Spin the wheels while watching the gap between the rim and the brake shoe. If the rim has a noticeable wobble or an up-and-down movement, the rim needs to be trued.

Check your CranksCheck your Hubs

Holding one crank still with one hand, see if you can move the other one. If you can, the crank bolt needs tightening.

Grasping the ends of both cranks, try to move them sideways. If they move an equal amount to the left and right, it means the bottom bracket is loose.
Lift the chain off the chain-rings so that the cranks can be easily turned. Then rotate the cranks to see if the bottom bracket needs attention.

Make sure the cranks and chain rings are both straight by looking from above. Check that all the chain ring bolts are tight using an Allen key. Make sure the pedals revolve freely. 

Grab the wheel at the top and see if it wobbles side to side. If there is noticeable play, the hubs need to be adjusted. Now spin the wheel. If you hear a grinding noise or if the wheel feels rough as it spins, the bearings may need to be repacked or the hub casing replaced.

Check your GearsCheck your Chain

Check that the gear changes are quick and accurate. Turn the pedals as you shift through the gears. As you shift, the chain should transfer smoothly from gear to gear. 
Check the cable on the rear derailleur near the cable anchor bolt and wiggle the rubber pulleys to see if they are worn. 

Check the front derailleur cable for fraying; making sure the chain cage is parallel to the chain. There should be a 6mm gap between the chain cage and the chain ring

Weak or bent chain links can take the fun right out of a ride. Rotate the cranks backward and watch the links as they pass over the rear derailleur pulley wheels. This is the area where the chain makes its tightest turns; the bad links will hitch a little as they pass. You can loosen the links that stick by flexing the chain laterally with your fingers. Run the chain through again. If it still hitches, you may have a bad link that requires repair.

Check your Frame and Headset

Look the frame over for cracks. Also, use the front brake to hold the bike still while you rock the bike back and forth. Any noticeable play means the headset needs to be adjusted. Check the seat post clamp bolts and the saddle clamp are tight. Don’t over tighten so that you do not damage the threads.
This is just a quick, simple check. 

N.B. The most important part of the bike that should be checked regularly is the brakes. NEVER RIDE A BIKE WITH DAMAGED BRAKES 

If you do discover looseness or “play” in any bike component, you can either fix the problem yourself or take your bicycle to a bike shop for service. Choose the first option only if you’re sure of both the cause and the exact steps necessary to fix it.